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The everyday, explainedBy Huw Allen

Barbour. Never trying to be anything else.

Barbour posted £350 million revenue and a 20% jump in profit selling the same wax jackets it has for 130 years. Authenticity is the most sought after thing in fashion.

THE GIST ON BARBOUR: "Wax On"

Thumbnail for The Gist on Barbour, titled "Wax On".

Watch "Wax On": The Gist on Barbour.

How is Barbour doing?

Barbour has posted £350 million in revenue and a 20% jump in profit. It makes wax jackets, the same ones it has sold for 130 years, and it's growing faster than most fashion houses because it never tries to be anything other than what it is. Turns out the fashion world loves that.

Where does the jacket come from?

Barbour jackets are quintessentially British. They started in the late 19th century as oilskin jackets for people who needed to be outside in bad weather: practical and waterproof. Over time they found their way onto royal wardrobes, and the Queen wore one. The jacket stuck around, and so did the function and the class signal that goes with it.

Why does fashion want it?

Naturally the fashion world came looking, because it needed something it couldn't manufacture. Every brand in the world was trying to perform heritage and authenticity. Barbour just had it, so the collabs happened, with Palace and others, renting that credibility.

Canadians and Americans arriving in Britain buy a Barbour almost immediately. Wearing the jacket is cosplaying a national identity.

Why does it compound?

Every brand has a founding story, a craft narrative, a heritage, and consumers are getting much better at sniffing that out. That makes the real thing increasingly rare and increasingly valuable.

Every generation discovers Barbour for the first time, and each time they borrow that signal, the authority beds in. The trend moves on, the jacket remains, and that cultural transfer compounds in a way no marketing budget can replicate. So how old's your Barbour?

Is wearing a Barbour a style choice or a costume?

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Quick answers

How much did Barbour make?

£350 million in revenue and a 20% jump in profit.

Why does fashion want Barbour?

It has genuine heritage and authenticity that other brands try to manufacture, hence collabs such as Palace.

Who buys Barbour?

Every new generation, plus expats arriving in Britain who want a piece of national identity.

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