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The everyday, explainedBy Huw Allen

Rolex. No heirs, no pressure.

Rolex makes over 13 billion dollars a year and is the most valuable luxury brand on the planet. It's owned by a charity, and that's exactly why it's the best.

THE GIST ON ROLEX: "Keeping Time"

Thumbnail for The Gist on Rolex, titled "Keeping Time".

Watch "Keeping Time": The Gist on Rolex.

Who owns Rolex?

Founder Hans Wilsdorf was an orphan with no children. When his wife died, he put the entire company into a charitable foundation. Under Swiss law it can't ever be sold, taken over or go public. So there are no shareholders, no growth targets and no pressure.

Why does that matter?

Every other major luxury brand is traded. LVMH and Richemont have to show growth every quarter, which means they all eventually dilute: perfume, handbags, sunglasses, hotels. The share price demands it. For 120 years Rolex has made nothing but watches, because no one has forced it to.

What about the heirs?

Every luxury dynasty eventually tears itself apart. Gucci, Versace, Fendi: they have heirs. The heirs want dividends. The heirs want to sell. The heirs don't care about the product. Wilsdorf had no heirs, so Rolex just kept making watches. The Submariner and the Daytona have been obsessively refined over 70 years because no one in the room was asking when the perfume line was launching.

What does it prove?

The received wisdom is that pressure creates excellence. Rolex is 13 billion dollars a year of proof of the opposite. Take away the pressure and let people focus on nothing but the work, and the work gets so good that the money comes anyway.

The deep irony: the most valuable luxury brand in the world is a charity that makes watches, and it's beating every company trying to make money.

Would you buy a Rolex if money were no object?

Your take. One tap, then see how everyone else voted.

Quick answers

Who owns Rolex?

A charitable foundation set up by founder Hans Wilsdorf, which under Swiss law can't be sold, taken over or go public.

Why don't LVMH and Richemont do the same?

They are traded companies that have to show growth every quarter, so they dilute into perfume, handbags and hotels.

What is Huw's main point?

Pressure isn't what creates excellence: take it away and the work gets so good the money comes anyway.

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